“The whole show is about… what is menswear, what is womenswear? What is daywear, what is nightwear? I like to experiment to see how far you can push it,” explains Dries Van Noten of his spring/summer 2013 collection, which was unveiled on Wednesday (26th September) at Paris Fashion Week. Mixing an abundance of checks and plaid – a traditionally masculine print – with wispy florals created that contradiction, as did placing plaid on organza and pairing bold manly shapes with floaty counterparts.
They’re calling it grunge couture. Morphed versions of Amy Winehouse’s “Back to Black”, Karen Carpenter’s “Superstar” and Kylie’s “Can’t Get You Out Of My Head” serenaded models down the runway in the aforementioned plaid, boxy 90s silhouettes, mauve and blue-based colour palette, loose and straight shapes, as well as heels akin to Courtney Love. “Automatically when you start to work with plaids and checks and tartans you have to do grunge and the punk influence. So we have all the elements that you know, but then we bring them together and make a new version of it,” said Dries after the show.
In this sense, the grunge element was teamed with seductively ladylike accents. The flowers were screen-printed on wide-leg pyjama trousers, maxi skirts or dresses, and others were textured and intricately beautiful on lengthy pencil skirts. Amongst the taffeta, organza and mousseline were shimmering touches of lamé and silver jewellery.
Quite simply creating garments and looks that women immediately want all to themselves, the Dries Van Noten SS13 collection was downright dreamy.